Prior to my German visit, besides the music scene, I also intended to see some art. As with most city breaks, galleries tend to be de rigueur for 80% of tourists, however when in Berlin, following the straight and narrow touristy road isn’t the point of being there.
As one of the most avant-garde creative hubs, artists have flocked to the city; mostly settling in the East Berlin districts of Kreuzberg and Freidrichshain since the wall came down in 1989. Due to cheap rents and a slight lawlessness about the place, artists and squatters gravitated towards Berlin and since 1990 a building once used as a Nazi prison has been occupied by artists. They named it Kunsthaus Tacheles and to this day it still stands as an art squat. I’ll save you my sketchy Wikipediad chronicle of Tacheles, so for all the ins and outs of its history, please Google it or read a Lonely Planet guidebook.
Before I go on I’ll be straight with you; I’m not that cool. When I go abroad visiting art squats isn’t often top of my list. It was actually a pal who told me to go, who was probably told by another pal to go. So not really knowing what to expect I jumped on the metro/subway, whatever the Germans call it, in the direction of Oranienburgerstrasse, with my friends in tow, in search of this mystical place.
When we arrived we nearly walked by it. At night it’s all dark and ghoulish but then we spotted a few dudes smoking and drinking beer outside so we knew we’d come to the right place. We then made the long hike to the top, up several flights of stairs seeking some arty people to mix with. The stairs are in fact a key feature of this building and a perfect location for taking some totally cool photos in because of the copious amount of graffiti all the way up.
We then arrived at a large dark room on one of the levels, which was completely bare besides a ladder going up to some secret room I assume the artists/squatters use for kipping/partying in. I would’ve gone up but I’m a wuss and didn’t want to be told to sod off and embarrassed by one of the residents so I resumed walking up considerably more flights of stairs.
This time I arrived at a floor with some stalls selling surreal amalgamations of photographed body parts. See photos for examples of what I mean. I quite liked this art – so far so good – but resisted purchasing anything because it would get squashed in my hand-luggage sized suitcase, and I sure as hell wasn’t paying Easyjet for extra luggage to take home some photo of a nun with her bosoms out.
After resisting the urge to purchase obscure pictures to adorn my bedroom with, I coerced my friend into taking Instagrams of me up against some more graffitied walls trying to look like I’m completely unaware of the iPhone about 10 ft away. After my faux-posed photo shoot I went into a room with some real art. By this I mean art created using paint and papier-mâché. There were also some inexplicable genital moulds on display and an old telescope which I tried to look interested in.
The artists in this room were a bit hostile to say the least. Just as we were leaving they asked us to cough up some Euros for the pleasure of their aloof company, which we did because we didn’t want to look tight. I kind of begrudged it though; only because for all their squatting and ‘free love’ profanities, they were really just as money driven as the rest of us. The only difference is they can paint!
Nevertheless I enjoyed my squat escapade and urge people visit Tacheles when in Berlin sooner rather than later. As a Guardian reader, I frequently come across articles highlighting the imminent closure of the site due to developers wanting to get their manicured little hands on it. Therefore make it a priority to go and see what is one of the last bastions of Berlin’s art squat scene before it succumbs to The Man.
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